Kyubey Sushi in Ginza

I am often asked for suggestions for restaurants in Tokyo, in particular, a good sushi restaurant. There are so many it is hard to even begin. What your budget is, what neighborhood is convenient (as Tokyo is so big), etc. A good starting point is Kyubey Sushi in Ginza. Lunch is reasonable and it is one of the most famous sushi restaurants in the city. And while many say they want to avoid "tourist-type" sushi restaurants, I could never include this in that category. Many of my Japanese foodie confidants have this high on their list. Lunch starts at 4,000 JPY, which is reasonable for this quality. And, much much better than paying the same amount for the tiny stalls in Tsukiji where you are crowded into tiny seats and not at liberty to linger.

I was so impressed when the chef asked me if he should change the amount of wasabi or if he should make the rice smaller or bigger. Rarely does that happen.

Kyubey Sushi
Chuo-ku, Ginza 8-7-6
03-3571-6523
http://www.kyubey.jp/index_e.html (in English)

Kuya Monaka in Ginza 銀座の空也

Kuuya 空也
Chuo-ku, Ginza 6-7-19
03-3571-3304
10:00 – 17:00, Saturdays 10:00 – 16:00, closed Sundays and holidays
www.wagashi.or.jp/tokyo/shop/0337.htm (Japanese)

Started in Meiji 17 (1884), Kuya is a 4th generation shop selling only one item, monaka. The outer shell is a crispy, delicate, toasty wafer surrounding slightly sweet, crushed azuki beans (tsubuan).

Ginza Natsuno Chopsticks Shop 銀座の夏野

Ginza Natsuno 銀座夏野
Chuo-ku, Ginza 6-7-4
10:00 – 20:00, Monday – Saturday
10:00 – 19:00, Sunday and holidays
www.e-ohashi.com/natsuno/ (Japanese)

This small shop is packed with a dizzying array of chopsticks some handcrafted by artisans. There is a collection of seasonal hashioki (chopstick rests), bowls, and many things for the table. The chopsticks are made from a variety of materials including lacquer, bamboo, or gold and silver-tipped.

Fukumitsuya in Ginza 銀座の福光屋

Fukumitsuya 福光屋
Chuo-ku, Ginza 5-5-8
03-3569-2291
11:00 – 21:00, Monday – Saturday
11:00 – 20:00, Sunday and holidays
www.fukumitsuya.co.jp/english/index.html (English)

Fukumitsuya is a sake shop representing a brewery from Kanazawa that opened in 1625. Rest your feet at the small tasting bar and try a few before purchasing. The bottles are stored in small box refrigerators in the back of the shop, as all good quality sake should be. There is a nice selection of cups and bottles, both traditional and modern, for serving sake at home.

Pierre Marcolini in Ginza

Belgian Pierre Marcolini has two shops next to each other, one for chocolates and the other for ice cream. On some days there is a long line out the front doors.

Pierre Marcolini ピエール マルコリーニ
Chuo-ku, Ginza 5-5-8
03-5537-0015 (chocolate shop)
03-5537-2047 (ice cream shop)
11:00 – 20:00 (Monday – Saturday)
11:00 – 19:00 (Sunday and holidays)
www.marcolini.be/EN/accueil.html (English)

Uogashi Meicha Tea Shop in Ginza 銀座のうおがし銘茶

Cha Ginza 茶銀座
Chuo-ku, Ginza 5-5-6
03-3571-1211
11:00 – 19:00 (closed most Mondays, check website)
www.uogashi-meicha.co.jp/shop_01.html (Japanese)

This cool, sleek modern building dedicated to tea in the heart of Ginza, this shop definitely draws the attention of passersby with its glass façade and long, narrow counter on the first floor. Uogashi Meicha has a shop in Tsukiji Market and this Ginza outpost is a great place to take a break from the shopping and to recharge with a healthy cup of green tea. The first floor is a minimalist retail shop with a long wooden counter where you can sample some tea. The 2nd floor is a café ideal for chatting with friends while the 3rd floor is a zen space better suited for introspection and meditation.

Akebono Sembei in Ginza 銀座のあけぼの

Ginza Akebono 銀座あけぼの
Chuo-ku, Ginza 5-7-19
03-3571-3640
9:00 – 21:00, until 20:00 on Sunday
www.ginza-akebono.co.jp/ (Japanese)

Akebono, the very small store, has an interesting assortment of modern sembei that include cheese, almonds, and pine nuts. There is also temaki natto (dried natto wrapped in nori), and an uni sen (uni flavored sembei). And some unusual styles like genkotsu sembei that are very tough and hard to chew. Akebono also has a wide assortment of wagashi including a kuri monaka (monaka with a chestnut inside), dorayaki, and manju. Akebono has shops in most depachika. The shop in Ginza is located just behind the corner police box (koban). If you are lucky and come in the spring you can try the ichigo daifuku, a whole strawberry surrounded by azuki and wrapped in delicate mochi (sticky rice).

These photos taken in the spring show green apricots and one of my favorites, mame daifuku, azuki paste surrounded with mochi that is studded with black beans.